Type Portable Wood Router
Specifications of the Wood Router
Control the Wood Router
Some Considerations When Buying Wood Routers
The success of the hatching process is the goal of every farmer who undertakes to incubate their eggs (read more about the best egg incubator reviews).If the incubation process doesn’t guarantee successful hatching, then it will be an exercise in futility and a waste of the farmer’s money, time and energy. But the success of a hatching process is hinged to the kind and quality of the incubator that you will use in the process. That is why it is very important to pay attention to the selection process of the incubator the same way you do during the selection of the eggs.
As you choose an incubator, there are some cardinal features that you have to factor before settling for it. One of the features that you will need to put into consideration is the ability of the incubator to manage humidity automatically by simply setting the system and allowing it to regulate it.
The purpose of this article is to examine the importance of humidity as a vital contributor and determinant of the success of your incubation process.
The importance of correct humidity levels
Image source: backyardchickens.com
In the incubation process, it is not just humidity that determines the success of the process. It is the right levels of humidity that will guarantee the success. This means that if the humidity level is either too low or too high, the whole incubation is going to suffer and lead to undesirable results.
First of all, if the levels of humidity are below the desired standards, the eggs may hatch but the chicks that you will get out of that process will be weakly. The problem with weak chicks is that most of them usually die shortly before they are hatched, during the hatching process or shortly after they have been hatched. For those chicks which don’t die during or after hatching, they end up being crippled. However, if you have a hatcher that performs best in this area, then you will be guaranteed of healthy and strong chicks that will survive the hatching process and grow into maturity.
Image Source: paoniafarmandhome.com
Second, if the levels of humidity are too high, the incubation eggs will lose too much moisture during the incubation process and hence lead to large chicks. Most of these chicks usually die during the hatching process. Additionally, high humidity leads to chicks being hatched with egg smearing.
Automatic regulation of humidity is a vital consideration when selecting an egg incubator. This is because when humidity is maintained in a stable manner, it will facilitate the safe hatching of the chicks. That is why you need to invest in a hatcher that has this feature so that you don’t incur unnecessary hatching failure and losses.
For the best ceiling fans by Minka Aire, I would like to recommend the Minka – Aire F519 – BN design for low ceiling room from the Minka group.
The Minka-Aire F519-BN is much more productive than common fans. Since its blades are made of real silver, they weight more than usual blades, also they provide stronger air movement in the room. This fan even saves a lot of money. As a matter of fact, choosing this over air conditionner will save you a lot of money and still have much less efficiency. This fan will give you the perfect condition, which is neither too cold nor too hot.
When using the AC, there would be times that you feel cold when it’s on but when you turn it off, the weather gets hot. Either way you are not happy. On the other hand, the said fan control the temperature of your room, in which the amount of warmness and coldness is equal so as to treat you the perfect air you want. No more adjusting the temperature every 30 minutes like what you do with your AC remote control.
The fan has cool features and performances way better than common ceilling fans. Even better, it makes the very least sound, quieter than most of the fans. Plus, the big amount of money people have to spend on this appliance may give them second thought. We do need fan, but that much money is sometime not affordable.
To end this, I believe this is a smart product. If you are finding an aesthetic but “tough” ceiling fan, the Minka – Aire F519 – BN 52 – inch Concept II Flush Mount Ceiling Fan should be the first choices you think about. It gives you great performance in general, as well as the design is suitable for almost every type and size of room. The materials used, mosty silver, make it long lasting and durable. Furthermore, the features including handeld remote controller and short neck make it one of the best options. The money you pay for this appliance, even pretty much, will worth so many times you have to pay for repairing and stuffs.
Since dogs came into the lives of people, they have every reason to remain there (read more for the best house dogs).Human beings have all the reasons to continue using dogs as their best canine friends. This article seeks to outline all the compelling reasons why you should be using a house dog for whatever reasons you choose to adopt it into your family.
One of the greatest reasons that will compel you to continue using a house dog is their great sense of humor. Dogs have a very interesting way of getting you laughing, even without their conscious intention to do so. One of the best ways that you can use a house dog to create a sense of humor is to turn it into a fashion “law breaker”. You can do this by dressing the dog in mismatching colors.
Image courtesy of: dogs-a-z.blogspot.com
Another reason why you should be using a house dog is that dogs help you to maintain your social fiber. First of all, dogs increase and improve the way you relate to other people. For example, dogs expose you to other dog owners and this increases the sphere of your friendships and networks. This is more enhanced especially through dog interactions days and outings.
Apart from being social companions, dogs are also very loyal friends. They are trusting and trustworthy members of the family and they offer free lessons on loyalty and commitment.
Aside from helping to improve the social health of their owners, house dogs can also facilitate the physical health owners. It is medically proven that kids who are born and raised up in houses that have dogs have very low chances of getting allergies and asthma. Studies have established that mice come into contact with an environment that is inhabited by dogs, they develop a mutated form of microbes that are instrumental in building immunity against allergens. These allergens, the studies show, are the ones which help your children develop immunity against allergens.
Another reason why you need to be using a house dog is that dogs can be life savers in the least expected manner. First of all, some of them are universal blood donors and their blood can be used to rescue other animals such as cats. In human beings, dogs can be trained to sense the arrival of a seizure in human beings and alert them through barking some 15 minutes before it occurs. This enables the patient to get to a safer place and sit down so that they do not get hurt. This is an amazing and priceless life-saving capability that no other animal can offer you or your family except a dog.
Another way by which a house dog can save your life or that of your family members is through early cancer detection. Dogs have a natural mechanism of smelling the growth of cancer in the human body, especially the skin. So far, scientists have now trained dogs to detect the presence of cancer in a record 3 hours.
Image courtesy of: class.dogloveit.com
Aside from booting your social and physical health, house dogs can also play a very instrumental role in bolstering your psychological and emotional health. It is believed and proven that if you spend at least some 20 minutes with your dog in a jovial and playful manner, you become more relaxed and any element of stress is reduced from your system. This is because this activity increases the release and stimulation of a hormone that is responsible for relaxation.
Most of us would want truth and precision in what we do, isn’t that correct? Look at all those who’ve excelled in their own particular fields, they’ve done so just due to precision and truth.
Exactly the same goes for router tables, it demands precision and correctness to construct one of these store must haves. A hobbyist would make an utter mess of it without the use of an excellent set of router table plans.
Router table plans are made available for individuals around who favor doing the job and prefer doing things themselves the correct manner.
There are many router table plans floating around, some are for sale while some are for free. Anyone looking to create a table for his or her router would require a world of patience as simply any strategy won’t do. Several of the best router table plans include detailed step by step directions which make it easy to check out.
Depending on a people skills and experience, you can also follow using a great set of drawings’ thorough directions. It is nature to desire all things to be easy, in this instance please leave a border for improvisation based on how experienced or inexperienced you’re.
A lot of the finest sets of plans that exist come with as much detail as you possibly can, These are accessible on the internet or in the type of publications or magazines. This table is an important element of a wood shop. Some parts of the wood endeavor like the router and the table plate are not cheap these are sometimes found in sales.
One should not be frugal where the materials are worried, when assembling a this project. A little advice that will be heeded, do not set out if the router table strategies will not be complete enough to construct this job, there would be many road blocks.
You’ll be amazed to learn that there are about fourteen thousand different wood working project strategies that range from router table plans. Every one of these are of the highest quality even though they have been focused in a single place. One has to be cautious not to choose inferior quality router table plans in order to avoid a calamity.
The attention of the fourteen thousand quality woodwork strategies online can keep one occupied for a lifetime or maybe more. It’s here that one continue to construct one of the best store improvements ever and will find what he/she is searching for.
To avoid all of the frustration and problems that arise from an erroneous set of strategies one shouldn’t be hasty. Haste makes waste truly as the saying goes. All of us must avoid and study.
Obtain a good pair of router table plans on getting the project completed right the very first time and concentrate. Good strategies are like a road map, without the road map, don’t have any clue where you’re going, the same holds true for a good pair of plans
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A belt sander has a variety of uses. It can remove paint, smooth wood and sharpen blades. A large sander can do more work, but it is bulkier to use. Using the sander requires careful application because it is a powerful tool that can do surface damage.
My belt sander’s a well-traveled tool. It has removed paint from my porch floor, smoothed the surface of my dining room table and sharpened my lawn mower blade.
Belt sanders are versatile tools; you’ll find them in the cabinetmaker’s shop and the carpenter’s truck. They can handle the finest detail work or the coarsest cleanup work; it all depends on the belt you select and how you control the tool.
Belt sanders are classified by their sanding belt width and circumference: 3 x 21 in., 3 x 24 in. and 4 x 24 in. are common sizes. The 4-in. wide sanders remove stock quicker and level surfaces more evenly than smaller sanders, but their weight (14 lbs. vs. 8 lbs. for smaller sanders) makes them tiring to use. Plus, their size and power make them difficult to control on small or delicate surfaces. Small sanders are good for touch-up work, but they’re too small for flattening large surfaces.
A 3 x 21- or 3 x 24-in. sander ($75 to $150) will handle most home improvement or woodworking projects. You can clamp flat-topped ones upside down for use as sharpening or stationary sanding tools. Those with “flush sanding” capability have one edge that can sand directly up to another surface. For instance, when you’re sanding a floor, the flush edge can sand directly against the wall or base molding.
Belts are available in “grits” ranging from 36 to 200. Lower numbers designate coarse, quick-cutting belts; higher numbers indicate smoother or fine-grit belts.
The biggest mistake made by both novice and experienced tool users is to underestimate the power of their sander. A coarse belt can remove 1/4 in. of material in seconds – great, if that’s your intent, but not so great if you’ve just sanded through the thin veneer of a door or piece of oak plywood.
Some tips to remember:
Belt sanders work quickly and the surface you’re sanding is hidden below the machine. So stop frequently to check your progress – and keep practicing until you get a feel for the tool.
Standing your belt sander on its head allows you to keep a close eye on your workpiece. Most sanders have a small button you can press to keep the sander in the “ON” position. Station yourself out of the path of the belt, so if it launches the workpiece, you’ll be out of harm’s way. Be careful not to contact the moving belt with your fingertips.
This inverted position is also ideal for sharpening. Position the tool so the belt is moving away from the tool tip. Use a fine (120-grit) belt and never sharpen for more than a couple of seconds at a time – you risk overheating and ruining the tool. Remove the dust bag before sharpening as a spark could ignite the dust within.
You can use your belt sander for smoothing the rough edges of a metal door threshold after cutting it to length, or for stripping paint from metal. But again, keep the dust bag off and wear hearing and eye protection.
If your sanding belt wanders off the rollers or rubs against the body of the tool, get it back on track with the tracking adjustment knob. Turn the sander on, then slowly rotate the knob one way then the other, until the belt is centered on the rollers.
Invest $3 in a rubber belt cleaner. Held against the rotating belt it removes gummy residue and caked sawdust, prolonging the life of your belt.
These smooth operators save time and effort. More convenience and safety features for less money help account for their growing popularity.
Some of the latest power sanders can skim off as much wood in 5 minutes as you could in 30 minutes of continuous sanding by hand. Many are easier to use than older models. And nearly all have a dust bag–important considering the health risks of inhaling wood dust.
Major brands include Black & Decker, Bosch, Craftsman, Dewalt, Makita, Porter Cable, Ryobi, and Skil. You’ll find four major types of power sanders at the store:
An attached dust bag captures dust routed into it through holes in the pad, but requires frequent emptying. A vacuum connection lets you attach a wet/dry vac for more thorough dust-collecting, though the hose may hamper maneuverability and handling.
Random-orbit and detail sanders use a hook-and-loop system to attach the sanding pad. Many finishing sanders have a lever-and-clip system. And all finishing sanders can be converted to pressure-sensitive adhesive pads. All belt sanders use a flip-out lever and tracking control to lock the sandpaper loop in place.
Many models of all types can be gripped securely with one or both hands for added ease and stability. A two-handed grip is especially important for a belt sander’s heavier-duty rough sanding, as is a large front grip that keeps hands well spaced to ease larger jobs. Some belt sanders can be secured to a bench with the belt facing upward–convenient for two-handed shaping where you hold the wood against the spinning belt, rather than the belt against the work piece.
Many belt sanders allow you to adjust tracking with a knob or thumbscrew instead of a screwdriver to move the paper nearer to one edge or the other. Many also have a trigger lock that can be locked in the On position with one hand.
Most finishing sanders with a dust bag or vacuum connection include a template for punching the pattern for the dust-routing holes in replacement sandpaper.
Variable speed adds control by letting you sand more slowly and carefully.
A long cord lets you dispense with an extension cord near an electrical outlet. A carrying case makes storage easier and neater.
Lots of choices for power sanders mean more considerations when shopping. Here are some of the major features you should be thinking about:
Determine which of the four types of power sanders meets your needs. If you’re buying just one sander, you’ll probably prefer a random-orbit or a finishing sander, which offer the most versatility.
If you’re buying a finishing sander, choose a one-quarter-sheet model for mostly small jobs and a larger, one-third-sheet model for the occasional tabletop.
A heavier sander tends to remove more wood in less time, since more weight helps the sander contact the wood more effectively. While the added heft isn’t an issue with most types of sanders, it could be with belt sanders, some of which weigh 11 pounds or more. Particularly for belt-type sanders, try lifting and holding the sander at the store. Then choose the heaviest model you can handle comfortably.
For added control, especially with larger, harder-working models, make sure the sander is easy to grasp with one or both hands.
Many sanders now include at least one of these features. But most of the low-cost models lack an attached dust-collection bag, a port for connecting a wet/dry vacuum hose, or both. A vacuum connection is especially important. Besides capturing dust more thoroughly than a bag, attaching a wet/dry vacuum helped speed sanding with several models we tested.
Even small projects may require that you replace the sandpaper several times. The hook-and-loop pads now common on random-orbit and detail sanders are the easiest to change. Some sanders of other types also make changing the sandpaper relatively convenient.
If you need to paint often like it is your job, you will think of what type of paint sprayer that will work the best for you. It is very important to know what type of paint sprayer because it will help you a lot in your painting projects and also if you have a painting company. To pick the best paint sprayer, here is your guide for each painting job.
If you want to choose a paint sprayer or the painting tools, you can read the features first like title, hose length, dimensions and others. Here are the details:
Title: You can refer the brand of the paint sprayer here.
Hose Length: You can refer the length of hose that you want here. It is very important to check the length so you can find the right one before buying.
Dimensions: You can refer the dimensions here to know the size that you want in inches.
Weight: You can refer the weight here.
Paint sprayer is the best tool if you want to replace traditional painting brush and roller. In choosing paint sprayer, you need to see the type of setting and features that you are comfortable to work with. Most of the paint sprayer models can offer you the best setting that suitable for your type of job. Please refer to this information.
The paint sprayers are perfect for home use and industrial use. For the professional painters, they are choosing paint sprayers because they can get the job done quickly and it is easy to carry to the working location. The cost for paint sprayers is not too expensive and you can get it for less than 100 dollars.
If you want to choose airless paint sprayers, here is the feature that you will get for the best airless paint sprayer. Airless paint sprayer can work as better as a regular paint sprayer but it has an extra feature which is a compressed air tool. This tool can let you paint in the fastest way and you will be easy to get a big painting project done on time. It can paint the walls or furniture very fast and giving a smooth finish. There are a lot of brands and type of paint sprayer out there, but only the best one that has these features.
Spray paint is the paint that came out from the can. It is not suitable for large project, but it is very useful if you want to paint something small and quick. You can do a touchup on a large object faster with a spray paint. It is available with so many colors and you can buy it offline or via online.
If you have a lot of painting work at home, you should have your own paint sprayer. To choose a best home paint sprayer, the features that you will need are:
-Easy to handle – choose the one that comfortable for you to hold in terms of lightness and size
-Easy to clean – the tools that easy to clean is a must so it can be used for a long run
-Easy to store – You need to prepare the storing place for your paint sprayer
–Budget friendly – buy the quality paint sprayer within your budget but still perform the best and effective.
Cabinets are the furniture that you can see in any houses. So if you want to touch it up a little bit, you can use a paint sprayer. To paint a cabinet, it can be tricky and you have to be extra careful with it.
The best paint sprayer that suggested for you is the paint sprayer that has the ability to toggle the paint. The paint that toggled out of the paint sprayer’s nose is the paint that you can easily handle and control the amount. The best one will be the HVLP paint sprayer. It is good for indoor painting projects. It is also small, easy to carry and easy to store.
It is very important for you to get the right paint sprayers for each painting job. Your painting work will be finished faster and you can have the quality product on your own. At the same time, you are saving a lot of money and time with the right paint sprayers. Paint sprayers also can be used again and again with a very well maintenance.
A number of lower-priced lawn mowers are making a showcase lawn more attainable by delivering the cutting, mulching, and bagging you’d expect on $700 models. But some manufacturers are cheaping out with questionable designs.
Several new Honda and Toro mowers groomed our 175,000 square feet of test lawn nearly as well as the top-scoring models for hundreds less. You’ll also find more features as big-box stores and home centers push mower makers to offer more for less. An example is a blade-brake clutch that stops the blade but not the engine when you pause to pick up twigs or empty the bag. Two of our four mowers that have the clutch cost about $550.
Some mower brands meet those price targets in ways that shouldn’t affect performance–using a mowing deck made of stamped steel instead of aluminum, for example (steel can work just as well). Others are saving money by outsourcing parts. One new Yard-Man mower is the first in the U.S. with an engine made in China. That mower proved less than impressive in our tests.
Six weeks of mulching, bagging, and other mowing also revealed that some of this year’s latest lawn mowers make your mowing job easier while others remain an exercise in frustration. Here’s what we found in our tests:
Infinitely variable drive systems that let you speed up or slow down without jerky shifts were once the province of pricier Honda and Toro mowers. They’re now on more-plebian models that cost as little as $300.
Almost all gasoline-powered mowers now start with one or two pulls. Six mowers we tested from Craftsman, John Deere, and Troy-Bilt ease starting further by eliminating the need to fiddle with a primer bulb or choke.
Even after decades in the business, some mower makers still botch the basics. One Craftsman self-propelled model has nine cutting-height positions for its front wheels and only six in back you won’t get any benefit by using the “in between” front settings, the maker says. One John Deere model requires three hands to attach its bag, while an otherwise stellar Honda won’t cut higher than 3 inches, which may not be enough if you need to mow higher.
Also less than ideal: Three push mowers we tested lack a side-discharge mode for tall grass and have only bagging and mulching. Bagging can be a struggle with push mowers as the bag fills with grass.
Mower manufacturer MTD says it will wait to see how its Chinese-engined Yard-Man 12A-26MB sells before using the engine on other models. Available at Wal-Mart, the mower costs just $215 and is among the lowest-priced self-propelled mowers with a more efficient, overhead-valve engine. But we’d think twice based on our tests.
The engine on one of our two samples surged as we mowed, rather than going about its business smoothly like the other engines. Only fair side-discharging and mediocre evenness and mulching also put it last among our self-propelled mowers.
Better mowers for less means you needn’t settle for subpar results. See our Ratings and CR Quick Picks for mowers that offer the best combination of performance and value. Then use these tips to choose a mower that fits your needs:
Gas-powered mowers generally out-perform electrics, especially in tall or dense grass. Choose a self-propelled mower for hilly lawns and those larger than half an acre. Push mowers are fine for smaller or flatter lawns and for trimming larger ones after you mow with a tractor. Electric mowers start with push-button ease and produce no exhaust emissions. But they’re less powerful than gas models and come push-only. Corded electrics cost the least while battery-powered mowers free you from a cord, though run time is usually limited to about 20 minutes.
Most lawn mowers can mulch, bag, and side-discharge clippings. But some leave out bagging or side-discharging, and most perform better in some modes than in others. Choose a model that scored well in the mode you use most. Also be sure all modes are easy to change and engage.
Most self-propelled mowers have two control devices–a handlebar safety bail that stops the engine as well as a bail or lever that engages the drive wheels and adjusts ground speed. Be sure both of these controls work smoothly.
Fourteen of the 37 mowers we tested now have the cachet of a Honda engine. But we found no performance advantage to any particular engine brand. Horsepower is another selling point that has little to do with performance. Indeed, two 7-hp mowers from Craftsman and Snapper are near the bottom of the Ratings, while a 5.5-hp Lawn-Boy is near the top.
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Choosing a color for your painting project can be fun, but it’s not the most critical step. What really matters is finding a paint that covers previous coats well, stands up to stains and scrubbing, and lasts without fading.
Fading performance remains an issue. More than half of the 66 flat, low-luster, and semigloss paints we tested scored poorly in this area. A fade-resistant paint–essential for a sunny room–can save you time and money, since the longer the color lasts, the less often you’ll have to repaint.
Another way to save time and money is to use a paint that can cover in one coat. While one-coat hiding power is not typical, several paints did a good job overall with the first coat (footnoted in Ratings).
Among our other noteworthy findings:
Cleaning is fundamental. Most paints performed well on stain- and scrubbing-resistance tests. But some flat paints proved more likely to absorb stains, which makes cleaning more difficult. For rooms where humidity levels can be high (kitchens, bathrooms), always use paints that scored well for mildew resistance.
These stars don’t shine. While “celebrity” paints from Ralph Lauren and Martha Stewart were very good, they don’t stand out in our Ratings. Our advice: Consider Ralph and Martha for your clothing and housewares, and shop among our better performers for paint.
High-quality paint is easy to find. Some paint brands, such as Valspar (Lowe’s), Behr (Home Depot), and Kilz (Wal-Mart), are sold by only a single retailer. But the good news is that no one outlet has a monopoly on high-scoring paints, as our test results indicate.
Most paints have at least one weakness–a test result noticeably lower than their other scores. Weigh those factors to select a paint that delivers the best performance in the attriburtes that matter to you.
Go with low-luster for most jobs. We think low-luster paints work best for most situations, and they’re ideal where durability is a concern because they resist wear better. For spots where you want a different finish, use semigloss for trim and shelves and flat for low-traffic areas.
Be smart with color. View paint chips or samples under the same lighting conditions as in the room where they’ll be used. For large areas, err on the side of too light rather than too dark. And don’t sweat it if you can’t get a dead-on match for drapes or carpet. A paint in the same color family with the same undertone will work fine.
Pick the cream of the crop. Buy paints at or near the top of a manufacturer’s line. Our past tests indicate that paints below the top of the line don’t perform well. The top values include nine CR Best Buys that cost $14 to $25 a gallon.
According to the Paint Quality Institute, you’ll get the best results by doing top-notch prep work.
Fix wall gouges with drywall compound or spackle; patch gaps with acrylic or siliconized acrylic caulk. To remove dirt and grease, scrub with detergent and warm water. Eliminate mildew with a solution of 3 parts water to 1 part bleach. Dull glossy areas with No. 220 sandpaper.
Use low-tack painter’s tape on windows and hardware. It’s less likely than conventional masking tape to remove paint or leave an adhesive residue when you pull it off.
You don’t have to prime a painted surface if the existing paint is in good condition. But do prime any surface you’ve repaired. Use stain-blocking primer to cover stains, and acrylic latex wall primer for other areas.
Latex or water-based paints call for brushes with synthetic bristles and rollers with synthetic covers. On walls and ceilings, start by cutting in a 2-inch strip with a brush at corners and edges and around doors and windows, then switch to a roller. Make 3-foot “W” or “M” patterns with the roller, then fill in the gaps with the roller.
The top-rated paints scored highly in many performance categories. But even highly rated paint may perform poorly on certain measures. Fading, for example, was a problem among many brands in all finishes. When shopping, determine which attributes are critical for your application, then select a high-scoring paint with top marks in those areas.
Many high scorers are favorably priced mass-market brands. Independent paint stores offer high-quality paints, too. Their prices are higher, but you tend to get more specialized service from independents.
Concealing imperfections. Use a flat finish when painting over cracked plaster or visible drywall taping. Glossy types are more likely to show imperfections.
Shifting colors. Opt for a paint that is excellent for hiding with two coats when you’re making a drastic color change–say, when painting white over red. A few paints showed reasonable hiding ability with one coat.
Avoiding tackiness. Glossy paints are best for doors, baseboards, and other trim because scuffs and stains clean up fairly easily. But some glossy paints remain sticky long after they are fully dry. Look for paints that scored well in sticking resistance to make sure your windows will open and books won’t adhere to shelves after the job is done.
Staying true to color. For sunny spaces, choose brands that resisted fading and consider colors without blue or yellow tones: They’re notorious for fading. Excellent fade-resistance doesn’t always come cheap: the Dunn-Edwards Permasheen costs $40; the Benjamin Moore Regal Aquavelvet Eggshell, $37.
Keeping it clean. Use low-luster paints for areas that take a lot of abuse. These finishes resist staining and are less likely to come off or blemish when you clean. Note that many paints became glossier or flatter with scrubbing. Significant changes in sheen can appear as unsightly as a stain.
It is fun to use a paint sprayer to do your weekend paint project. If you want to paint a large interior area, you can do it quickly and efficiently using paint sprayer.
For a professional result, you have to know what is the right type of paint sprayer for each project. You have to choose the right paint sprayer based on how large the area that you are going to paint and the type of paint that your are going to use.
With a proper preparations, you can minimize your cleanup and you can save more paint. Here are your guides on how to use a paint sprayer indoor.
It is important to use the right type of paint sprayer, because you will have a very good in quality finish and then you can make the painting job easier.
Inexpensive cup sprayer – This your best choice for small projects. This type of paint sprayer usually provide an even and tidy paint finish, but sometimes can cause “sputter” effect. You need to be extra careful if you decide to use latex paints.
Air sprayer – You can have a smooth and even finish for your painting job. The drawback about this spray is it can create more over-spray than when you use a cup sprayer.
Airless sprayer – This is a fast sprayer to cover more area than other type of sprayers. The best feature is it can overcome the over-spray problem. You can use this sprayer without thinning preparation for the paint. You can have a good finish product, with the paint on the surface more than in the air.
High-volume, low-pressure sprayer – If you want to use a regular paint, and not using thick paints, this is the best sprayer that can deliver more coverage in the shortest time. You can experience a professional finish for interior work and over-spray is not a problem. Take a look at Wagner Flexio 590, it is one of the best indoor paint sprayer in the market.
You have to prepare the room so you are only painting the desired area. The mist is like a droplet that can cover all over the room and landed on any opening and surfaces.
This is also an important method, so you can do your job comfortably and faster.
Before you start your painting work, you have to make sure that you already read and understand the sprayer’s direction. Here are some of the guide that you have to pay attention:
If a room has no flaws–it’s not too sunny and the walls are perfectly smooth–it’s easy to find a good, inexpensive paint. For other rooms, finding the right paint will take work. No paint does everything well, our tests show.
Many paints among the 63 we tested, including some top scorers, were poor for fading and are not the best choice for a sunny room. Other top brands left an irregular surface–fine if you’re trying to mask minor flaws in the wall, but not if you want a smooth finish. Others didn’t clean up well.
The reason for such variability is that paint manufacturers constantly readjust formulas to improve performance, cut costs, or comply with environmental regulations. Reformulations might improve paint in some ways, but detract in others.
For example, Ace Sensations, a flat-finish paint with Scotchguard from Ace Hardware, is supposed to resist stains. In our tests with grease stains, many other paints did better. But Ace Sensations performed well for other attributes.
Manufacturers continue to try making color selection easier and more accurate. Sample-sized jars, pouches of paint, and oversized paint chips give a bigger picture. Color-matching computers add science to the art: You supply a sample tile or a swatch of upholstery fabric, for example, and the computer comes up with a paint tint formula. But it is not an exact science, we found.
These should be among your considerations:
What gloss where? Shine is part style, part function. Semigloss paints put a durable finish on trim and shelves. In hallways and kids’ rooms, low-luster paints are the best choice because many are very good at resisting stains and most do not scrub off when cleaned. Flat paints are best for low-traffic areas.
Choose the right color. Make the most of color-sampling products and services. Tape sample chips where you will see them in morning, afternoon, and evening light. Try retailers’ color-matching computers, but be prepared to spend some time to get the color right.
Color intensifies on large areas, so if it’s a toss-up between a darker and a lighter shade, go lighter. Gloss level also affects color. Flat paints and textured walls absorb light, so colors seem darker.
Buy the top of the line. Tested paints are the top of each manufacturer’s line. We have found that lower grades do not perform as well.
Be flexible. A color does not have to precisely match the green leaf in the draperies. To look good, it needs only to be in the same color family. Note: whether the green has an undertone of yellow or blue. A paint with the same undertone will look good even if it’s lighter or darker.
You might think that if you use a paint store’s computerized color-matching service, it will find the perfect paint, whether you’re trying to match tile or existing paint.
But a perfect match is elusive, our tests show. We brought a shiny maroon bathroom tile to 10 stores in the New York metropolitan area that carry top-selling paint, asked them to match the color, and bought what they recommended. Many were close, but only one was right on the mark.
For each brand in our tests–Behr, Benjamin Moore, Sherwin-Williams, True Value, and Valspar–we bought paint at two stores in the same chain (Lowe’s stores for the Valspar paint, for example). We found differences among formulas and mixes, even between stores in the same chain.
One Benjamin Moore paint was the closest match, but the same brand from a different store was among the worst. Tweaking is the trick. The paint expert who mixed the best-matching Benjamin Moore adjusted the computer-specified tints for an hour until she was satisfied.
Bottom line: Computer color matching is worth a try, but don’t expect perfection. Some retailers will not give you a refund on a paint you deem a bad match. So ask them to work with you to adjust the tint.
Best overall in all gloss levels:
1, 26, 47 Behr $20 to $23
2, 28, 49 Kilz $16 to $18, CR Best Buys
4, 27, 50 Valspar $18 to $22
9, 32, 54 Dutch Boy $13 to $16, CR Best Buys
The Dutch Boy is the least expensive brand, but in the flat finish (9) it was less stain resistant. Many of the paints faded.
Best for walls that take a beating; all are CR Best Buys:
27 Valspar $19 (low-luster)
28 Kilz $17 (low-luster)
31 True Value $18 (low-luster)
32 Dutch Boy $15 (low-luster)
These had the best combination of scores for staining, scrubbing, and gloss change. Valspar (27), however, was the only one in this group that didn’t fade.
Best for sunny spaces:
3 Benjamin Moore $33 (flat)
27 Valspar $19 (low-luster), CR Best Buy
48 Dunn-Edwards $25 (semigloss)
All resisted fading. Choose the paint based on your desired sheen.
Best for flawed walls; all are CR Best Buys:
1 Behr $20 (flat)
2 Kilz $16 (flat)
4 Valspar $18 (flat)
All three performed well. The Behr (1) and Valspar (4) left a slightly irregular surface that might help hide minor wall imperfections. If your room is also sunny, consider the Valspar (4); it resisted fading better than the others. Paints that scored worse for surface smoothness may drip or leave roller marks.
The top-rated paints scored highly in many performance categories. But even highly rated paint may perform poorly on certain measures. Fading, for example, was a problem among many brands in all finishes. Decide on those attributes that are critical, and select a high-scoring paint with top scores in those areas.
Many paints that scored highest in our tests are mass-market brands sold by the big home centers and retailers and are favorably priced. Dutch Boy and Kilz were judged CR Best Buys in all categories. Independent paint stores offer high-quality paints, too. They may cost more, but you may prefer the service and staff at a dedicated paint store.
If you’re shopping for a stylish refrigerator, you don’t need piles of cold, hard cash. Some midpriced models flaunt the shiny stainless-steel finish and sleek Lines of expensive built-ins. Here are some of the latest trends:
Stainless takes off. Stainless steel is the biggest news in fridge design. More manufacturers are offering refrigerators that mimic the Sub-Zero pro-style look without the Humvee-sized price tag. You’ll still pay a premium for stainless–about $150 to $300 more than for a comparable white model–but prices start at a fairly modest $650 or so. Rising demand for steel could push the cost up this fall though, according to manufacturers.
Stainless lookalikes with a convincing vinyl-coated metal finish sell for about $150 more than white models. Unlike real stainless, which requires constant wiping and polishing, the lookalikes resist smudges. They also hold magnets. But they may not be an exact match for other stainless appliances in your kitchen.
New designs mean more choice. If you prefer the trim profile of a built-in to the bulk of a stand-alone, there’s a relatively new choice that can save you big bucks. Cabinet-depth refrigerators that are only a few inches deeper than your countertops start at $1,500–less than half the cost of built-ins. Most major brands now include cabinet-depth models.
Another new design to consider: armoire-style French-door refrigerators with side-by-side doors above a bottom freezer. Amana, Jenn-Air, Kenmore, LG, and Maytag offer this type of fridge. We tested the Kenmore Elite Trio 7350 recently and found it to be excellent and spacious. It’s being phased out, but Sears has introduced two new models, the 7550 and 7551 (each $1,700). We’ll test more French-door models for future reports.
High-end features go mainstream. More fridges have water dispensers and water filters. Extra-bright halogen lighting and wine racks are also showing up in midpriced models. A number of brands have digital temperature readouts, humidity controls, and removable door bins. On some GE, LG, and Samsung fridges, you can adjust the temperature of a drawer to “express chill” of thaw items. Some Frigidaire and Maytag models have elevator shelves that can be moved up or down, without removing the food, using a crank.
Space and energy efficiency aren’t always what they seem. When it comes to space, manufacturer specs can be misleading. The claimed capacity lists the raw space, but much of that is taken up by lights, fixtures, and unusable nooks. One model we tested, the Jenn-Air built-in side-by-side, advertised 26 cubic feet, but we measured just 14.5 cubic feet of usable space–44 percent less than stated. In general, side-by-side models are the least space-efficient. Top-freezers have the most usable space for their exterior dimensions, followed by bottom-freezers.
Energy labels can also mislead you. Not all refrigerators that earn the government’s Energy Star designation (meaning they use 15 percent less energy than the standard requires) get our top energy-efficiency rating. The government groups fridges into size ranges and has different criteria for top-freezers, bottom-freezers, and side-by-sides. We rate each model on its electricity consumption per cubic foot of usable space, regardless of type.
Overall, refrigerators are quite energy-efficient if you replace one bought in 1980 with a similar new model, utility costs will drop about 60 percent. Most new fridges cost $30 to $60 a year to run.
Besides style and type, consider the following points when buying a fridge.
Determine how big a refrigerator you want. Measure the space available before determining the size model you’ll buy. Also measure doorways and halls it will have to pass through when delivered. If you’re fitting a refrigerator into existing cabinetry you may be limited to the current width; in a remodel, it’s easier to go larger. Don’t use claimed capacity to compare different types of refrigerators, such as a top-freezer and a side-by-side; consult our Ratings for usable space. You might final that a top-freezer offers more capacity than a larger side-by-side.
Select the features you want. Today’s fridges come with lots of extras, such as gallon-size door bins and slide-out freezer shelves. Water dispensers, once found mostly on side-by-sides, are now offered on some top- and bottom-freezer models. They’re generally reside the door, though, so you have to open the fridge to get a drink. Water filters provide better-tasting water and ice. While icemakers and ice and water dispensers are handy, they increase the odds of needing a repair.
Check a brand’s track record. A refrigerator breakdown is a disaster you don’t even want to imagine, so consult our brand repair history. Built-ins appear to have higher repair rates than freestanding fridges. Side-by-sides with an icemaker and ice-and-water dispenser tend to require more repairs than top- and bottom-freezers with an icemaker only.
Consider noise. Your fridge is the one kitchen appliance that runs 24/7. If you value peace and quiet, check the Ratings for a model that doesn’t make a racket.
Best for small spaces and for a good value overall. Least expensive to buy and to run. A lot of storage space for their dimensions.
But you must bend to reach frequently used items. Doors swing wide and require considerable clearance. Many don’t have ice of water dispensers.
Price range About $400 to $1,800.
Best for people who want frequently used items at eye level and who don’t mind a smaller storage area for frozen items.
But you must bend of squat to find items buried at the back or in the bottom of the freezer drawer. Many don’t have ice or water dispensers.
Price range About $650 to $1,800.
Best for kitchens that can’t fit a wide-swinging door and for people who want to add panels to match cabinetry.
But they cost more than other types to buy and to operate. Usable space is limited despite large size, and most are too narrow for items like pizza boxes.
Price range About $800 to $2,300.
Best for people who want the built-in look without a giant price tag. Some can accommodate front panels to match cabinetry.
But because they’re slim enough to fit almost flush with your cabinets, they have less usable space than deeper, freestanding models.
Price range About $1,500 to $3,000.
Best for remodelers seeking a sleek, unified kitchen design with a side-by-side of bottom-freezer. Many come in stainless steel or accept panels to match cabinetry.
But most are unfinished; you have to pay more for a specific exterior. Although taller than other models, these have less usable space because they’re shallower, to align with cabinets.
Price range About $3,500 to $5,000.
Powerful elements or burners and dual-fuel designs with a gas cooktop and an electric oven are among the latest pro-style features that have migrated to the mainstream. But as with pro-style stores, some of those features may be less than they seem.
For example, you’ll find several new dual-fuel ranges for about $1,000, rather than the $2,000 to $3,000 typical for most. That price may sound like a bargain if you value the visual response of a gas flame with the familiarity of an electric oven. But our tests show there is little to justify the added cost of dual-fuel models, including the lowest-priced versions.
Spending $1,000 or so can also get you a gas-only range with cooktop heat to rival or surpass the 15,000 British thermal units per hour (Btu/hr.) typical of pricier, pro-style stoves. While the added heat can be a plus for searing and stir frying, some of the most powerful stoves are relatively slow at heating and unimpressive at simmering.
Manufacturers are also wooing you with high-tech controls and preset cooking modes. As with dual-fuel and ultrahigh heat, however, some ranges with these features may not deliver the performance they imply. The details:
Controls behind the screen. Digital oven touchpads are quickly replacing knobs on nearly all mainstream models. Several new Kenmore Elite models from Sears place an ATM-like glass touch screen over the controls.
Besides adding style, the flush screen is easy to clean and convenient to use–at least when it’s on the backsplash, as it is on most freestanding ranges. But bumping into the screen and accidentally changing settings can be a problem on slide-in versions, which lack finished sides and a backsplash and have the screen up front to give them a more built-in look.
More presets, more confusion. Electronic controls have spawned an array of preset oven programs that include Pizza, Cake, and others like the ones on microwave ovens. Some of these can add complexity, rather than ease. And some can yield disappointing results.
Faster, if you care. A growing number of lower-priced ranges now have a convection oven, which can speed cooking by circulating the hot air inside, though the time you save may be modest.
Trivection, found on some GE Profile and Monogram slide-in ranges and wall ovens, is the latest variation on speed cooking. GE promises results up to five times as fast as usual, using microwaves and thermal and convection heating.
Selling speed cooking has been a challenge. The Maytag Accellis, discontinued, included microwave cooking and performed well in out tests. Maytag says it didn’t catch on partly because consumers didn’t want to re-learn how to cook with it. Trivection models arrived too late for this report; we’ll test them as part of our special Kitchen Section in August.
You needn’t invest in frills to get a competent range, Our Ratings and CR Quick Recommendations highlight several low-priced, top-performing electric and gas models, including three CR Best Buys that cost well below $1,000.
Think about your cooking. Look for at least one high-powered element or burner, especially if you often cook for a crowd. Also look for a range that scored at least a very good for oven capacity. That may mean for going convection, which takes space and helps explain why the priciest ranges often have the smallest ovens. Models that did well at broiling are also likely to sear and cook steak and other foods quickly and evenly.
Balance convenience and durability. Electric smoothtops are more stylish and bit easier to clean than coils. But you’ll need to treat them with respect; dropping pots can crack the ceramic surface and sugary spills can pit it unless quickly wiped. The same holds true for the ceramic surfaces of gas-on-glass models.
Put high tech in perspective. Some new features may be less than you bargained for. For example, cookies came out underdone using the preset Cookies mode on all three Kenmore ranges with that feature, though you can reprogram that preset’s time and temperature. We also got cracked layer cakes with the Speed Bake setting on the low-scoring, duel-fuel Frigidaire in this report.
Other innovative models bring other caveats. Examples include Maytag’s Gemini line, which features a second. smaller oven designed for smaller meals and snacks, and Whirlpool Polara models, which can keep food cool and then cook it while you’re out. The Maytag performed well, but there are more reliable electric-range brands. As for the Polara, it’s pricey ($1,700) and performed unexceptionally in out oven tests.
Think twice about pricey ranges. Aside from their good look, there’s little reason to buy a pro-style store like those from Dacor, DCS. Jenn-Air, Thermador, and Viking. You’ll find better-performing mainstream models for far less money. What’s more, Thermador and Viking have been among the more repair-prone brands in our surveys.
Decide, what you’ll spend based on the style and features you want.
Ranges fall into three broad price groups based on aesthetics and convenience, rather than cooking performance. Consider how much of either you need. Then use the information below to determine how much you’ll need to spend.
Best for top performance without the higher-priced frills.
Typically includes a self-cleaning oven with a large window, as well as sealed burners, cast-iron grates, and at least one high-powered burner for gas ranges; the same oven features for coil and smoothtop electric ranges, but with at least one high-powered, expandable cooktop element.
But styling is more functional than fashionable for most.
Best for those who want added style and flexibility without paying for pro-style.
Typically includes the same as basic, plus stainless trim, convection, and more high-powered burners, and heavy cast grates for gas; a warming element and convection for electrics. Some models are dual-fuel designs with a gas cooktop and an electric oven.
But you still don’t get heavy-gauge, construction or ultra-high heat at all four gas burners or elements.
Best for those who want a pro style range or one wider than 30 inches.
Typically includes pro-style or dual-fuel ranges with stainless-steel construction, four burners with 15,000 Btu/hr. or more, continuous grates, beefy knobs, and convection, along with an extra burner or two and a griddle or grill for 36-inch-wide models.
But their ovens tend to be relatively small and their lower cooking performance hasn’t justified their higher price.
Separating the cooktop from the oven keeps two cooks from spoiling each other’s broth while putting both these appliances closer to eye level. But you’ll have to find the space and money–and check the reliability–of two appliances instead of one.
Our tests have found that pricey cooking appliances don’t necessarily outperform their mainstream counterparts. And our new repair histories for wall ovens and cooktops show that spending more doesn’t guarantee better reliability, either. Some of the most costly brands, such as Dacor, Jenn-Air, Thermador, and Viking, were relatively repair-prone.
What higher prices often do buy is better design and more features. Induction cooking, for example, is available only on cooktops. Convection is common among wall ovens, not so on ranges.
Induction cooktops offer faster heating, flawless simmering, and burners that shut off automatically when you remove the pot. Electricity passes through the magnetic elements under the cooktop’s glass surface, so they heat just the pot and remain relatively cool. But they typically cost two or three times as much as mainstream gas or electric cooktops and the technology’s reliability is unproven, which is why they’re not in our Select Ratings. A Kenmore model costing $1,800 performed as well as the pricier Gaggenau and Viking units we tested, but its controls were finicky, sometimes reacting to our touch, other times not. And you may need special cookware for induction (if a magnet sticks to the pot, it’s OK).
Ovens with convection use a fan to circulate hot air, so you can bake and roast at lower temperatures and for shorter times. Most wall ovens with convection automatically convert these differences for you. But the fan eats up oven space.
Stainless steel is still popular, both in the heavy-duty commercial versions from Wolf and Viking and on sleeker pro-style models from Electrolux, GE, and Viking. Smooth glass-covered cooktops are an alternative to stainless steel. These electric cooktops have inspired “gas on glass” cooktops, which put burners atop a sleek ceramic top. Some companies also offer ovens with glass-covered front panels.
In an effort to enhance performance, most manufacturers have moved from one-size-fits-all burners and elements to ones dedicated to high heat, moderate heat, and simmering. Over time, high heat has gotten hotter for faster boiling and better searing and stir-frying.
These work like the icons you touch on an ATM screen. They typically include a lockout feature so kids can’t turn on the heat.
Electric and induction cooktops are faster at heating and better at simmering than gas. Induction is the most responsive to temperature changes. Electric cooktops take much longer to cool down when you change the setting. Both electric and induction cooktops plug into a 240-volt line.
A 36-inch-wide cooktop has more elements, or burners, great for making big meals. Features like bridge elements, which connect two burners, and continuous grates make it easy to support large pans or griddles and slide pots around on gas cooktops. Electric wall ovens have larger capacities than gas models and are easier to install.
Some gas cooktops make you guess which burners have high Btu’s by making all burners the same diameter. Better are those that use larger burners for higher heat.
Healthful eating is one of the claims of a new breed of kitchen appliance, the steam oven. These microwave-oven-size appliances come in countertop and built-in versions. We tested one of each, as well as the Kitchen-Aid KDRP707R range with a steam-assist feature
The built-in Miele DG155 costs $1,700 and cooks only with steam. The countertop Sharp Superheated AX–700S costs $1,300 and can steam or bake, roast, and grill with or without steam. Capacity is about the same as a small microwave–less than 1 cubic foot. Both claim to cook food more healthfully than conventional ovens. But our analysis of food cooked in the Sharp and the KitchenAid found just as much fat in the food after steaming as before.
Health claims aside, these pricey ovens failed to impress. The Miele produced food that was pale and bland. The Sharp did a bit better, but it didn’t brown as darkly as a conventional oven. Steam didn’t improve the lackluster performance of the KitchenAid enough to justify its $4,100 price.
To make choosing the best cooktop and wall oven simpler, these Select Ratings include only tested models that combine performance, value, and reliability.
Most of the electric cooktops and wall ovens we tested performed well overall. But gas cooktops scores and reliability varied significantly more than electric models.
Both the Kenmore (2) and Maytag (3) cooked well overall and are available with stainless steel trim for about $150 more. A 3,000-watt element, slightly faster heating on high, and proven reliability give the Kenmore an edge and make it a CR Best Buy.
For added style and performance: The top-rated Electrolux Icon is the only 30-inch smoothtop with five elements, including three dual elements for added cooking flexibility, but it’s more expensive and its reliablity is unknown.
The GE (4) offers more high-powered burners and is from a reliable brand. It’s sold in stainless steel for an extra $150. The Maytag (5), which is a CR Best Buy, trades some performance for lower price and isn’t available in stainless.
Paying more for the GE (6) buys a covered bottom element and convection. The lower-priced Maytag (7) lacks a covered element; the other GE (8) also sacrifices convection and some baking performance, but costs less. All three are sold in stainless steel, at up to $300 more.